Gel manicures are a popular nail service that provide long-lasting color and shine. However, they can sometimes turn out lumpy or wrinkled if not applied properly. Luckily, there are a few simple tricks you can try to fix lumpy gel polish and get smooth, flawless nails again.
One of the main causes of lumpy gel nails is incomplete curing under the LED or UV lamp. This happens when the layers of gel polish are too thick or your curing time is too short. To avoid this, always apply thin, even layers of gel color and top coat and cure each layer according to manufacturer’s instructions. If you do end up with lumpy cured gel, you can try adding a few drops of alcohol to the polish bottle to thin it out before reapplication. Gently feathering the gel brush over the nail instead of digging it in can also help prevent clumps.
If you have wrinkled gel that has already cured, there are still ways to fix it. Soak a cotton ball in pure acetone and hold it against the nail for a few minutes to soften the polish so you can gently scrape it away. Then, apply new thin layers of gel and be sure to fully cure each one under the light. With some minor adjustments to your technique and products, you can easily rectify lumpy gel manicures.
The key is taking preventative steps like applying thin coats of polish, closing the bottles during curing, and properly caring for your gel manicure between salon visits. With proper application and curing, you can achieve smooth, lasting gel nails every time.
What Exactly Causes Lumpy Gel Nails?
Lumpy gel polish has a variety of potential causes that all stem from product consistency, application techniques, or curing issues that prevent the gel from drying into a smooth, glossy finish.
Incomplete Curing
One of the most common causes of bumpy gel polish is when the layers are too thick or cure time under the LED or UV lamp is too short. Thick layers of gel require more time under the light in order to fully harden and cure through each coat. Rushing the curing process or weak lamps that don’t emit enough UV rays will result in tacky, incompletely cured gel that dries unevenly.
Improper Application Techniques
How you apply gel polish can also directly cause bumps and lumps. Using too much product in each layer, failing to cap the free edge of the nails, not spreading the gel evenly, or moving fingers before curing can all create grooves, ridges, and bumps in the finished manicure. Proper application takes practice and patience!
Thick or Separated Gel Consistency
The actual gel polish formula can also be to blame for lumpy nail results. If the ingredients in the gel separate, often due to temperature fluctuations, it can dry thickly with clumps rather than smoothly. Old or improperly stored gel may also lose moisture and thicken.
Capping the Free Edge
Failing to properly “cap” the free edge, meaning brushing a thin coat of gel over the tip of the nails, can cause bumps and divots as the product shrinks and pulls away from the edges as it cures.
Moving Before Curing
If you slide your fingers around or reposition them while the gel is still tacky before placing them under the light, you risk shifting the product and causing uneven areas.
Environment Temperature and Storage
Extreme cold or heat can cause the ingredients in gel polish to start separating, resulting in a lumpy texture when applied. Old gel that has been improperly stored and exposed to air can suffer moisture loss and dry out, also causing clumping issues.
Underlying Nail Damage or Oil
Damaged nails or excessive oil on the nail plate can also interfere with proper gel application and cause it to cure unevenly.
Poor Quality Gel Formula
In some cases, lower quality gel polish with inferior formulas may simply be prone to lumpiness due to inadequate mixing, cheap ingredients, or problems with the manufacturing process.
Techniques for Fixing Bumpy Gel Nails
If you end up with less than flawless results, don’t panic! There are ways to fix lumpy gel polish. Here are some handy techniques:
Focus on Prevention First
The best way to avoid having to fix lumpy gels is to focus on prevention first. Always apply gel polish in thin, even layers, curing each coat fully according to manufacturer instructions, generally 30-60 seconds under LED light. Only apply 2-3 layers maximum. Thinner coats will cure more thoroughly.
Be sure to properly prep your nails by removing any oils with solvent and gently buffing to create a rough surface for gel adhesion. Moisturize your cuticles and surrounding skin with oil or petroleum jelly to prevent the gel from spreading onto your skin, which can cause bumps and an uneven curing surface.
Use precise, controlled application techniques when brushing on gel polish. Avoid flooding the cuticles or nail plate with excess product. Cap the tips of the nails with each layer. Work methodically finger by finger. Whenever possible, store gel polish upside down to prevent thickening or drying around the brush.
Add Thinner to Gel Polish
If your polish does end up developing a thick, lumpy texture in the bottle, try adding a few drops of gel thinner and mixing well before application. UV gel thinners containing methacrylic monomers will help re-liquefy the product and create a smoother consistency.
Gently Feather the Brush Over Nails
When applying gel that is starting to thicken, avoid digging your brush deep down into the well of product. Instead, lightly feather and skim the brush over the surface to deposit just enough to create an even layer without dragging clumps.
Soak Off Gel and Start Fresh
For bumpy cured gel that just can’t be remedied, it’s best to completely remove it and start over. Soak a cotton pad or ball in pure acetone and place it directly on the nail, securing it with foil. Let it soak for 5-10 minutes until the gel softens enough to gently scrape off using a cuticle pusher, being careful not to damage the natural nail. Remove any residue with more acetone before re-applying fresh thin layers.
Apply New Gel as Thin Layers
When applying gel over bumpy or damaged nails, keep layers extremely thin and evenly distributed. Gel applied too thickly will struggle to cure properly before drying. Build even, sheer coats up slowly for a smooth finish. Cure each individual layer fully.
Use Heat to Smooth
You can also try gently warming the nail plate after applying gel by waving a lighter underneath for a few seconds. The heat will allow the product to spread more evenly before curing. Just be very careful not to hold heat directly on the skin.
Gently File Surface
Once gel is fully cured, if you still have minor bumps or uneven spots, you can gently smooth the nail surface by using a fine grit nail file in one direction across the nail to level out the bumps without thinning your manicure.
Add Top Coat Cautiously
When applying top coat over bumpy gel polish, use a light hand and minimal product to avoid exacerbating the issue with more thickness. Try wiping excess top coat from the brush before application.
Explanation
| Fixing Technique | How It Works | Expected Results |
|---|---|---|
| Add Gel Thinner | 2-3 drops thins and smoothes polish | Creates even application |
| Feather Brush | Skims surface; avoids clumps | Prevents bumps when applying |
| Thin Layers | Sheer coats cure thoroughly | Allows smooth finish |
| Soak Off in Acetone | Softens polish for removal | Allows fresh start |
| File Surface | Light buffing evens bumps | Smooths nail surface |
| Minimal Top Coat | Prevents adding more thickness | Reduce ridges and bumps |
What NOT to Do for Lumpy Gels
While the techniques listed will all help fix an uneven gel manicure, there are a few things you’ll want to avoid:
- Applying more coats of gel over bumpy polish. This will not smooth it out, just add more thickness.
- Vigorously shaking gel polish bottles, which introduces bubbles.
- Peeling off gel polish, which can damage the natural nail.
- Filing too aggressively or thinning out gel, which weakens it.
- Skipping curing base coat, which helps adhesion.
- Picking at or touching gel before it fully cures.
Causes of Lumpy Gel Polish
Now that we’ve covered how to fix less than perfect gels, let’s revisit what causes bumpy texture in the first place so you can try to prevent it.
Incomplete Curing
The number one culprit behind bumpy, uneven gel polish is when the layers are too thick or cure time under LED/UV is rushed. Thick coats require more light exposure to fully cure. Always apply gel in 2-3 thin layers with full curing in between.
Improper Application Techniques
Applying too much gel at once, failing to cap the free edge, moving fingers before cured, flooding cuticles, and uneven spreading can all create lumps. Perfect your technique to get it right.
Thickened Gel Consistency
Exposure to temperature swings or improper storage can cause gel to thicken and dry clumpy. Old gel may also dry out. Replace polish annually and store properly.
Underlying Nail Damage
Rough, oily nails provide a poor base for curing gel smoothly. Always prep nails properly before gel application.
Low Quality Gel
Cheap gels with inferior formulas or manufacturing issues are prone to lumpiness and thickness. Invest in salon-quality products.
How to Prevent Lumpy Gel Nails
Luckily, lumpy gel nails are largely preventable through proper application, curing, and care. Follow these pro tips:
- Always prep nails correctly by removing shine and oils. Gently buff to create texture.
- Apply thin, even layers of gel only 2-3 coats thick. Avoid flooding cuticles.
- Cap free edges with every layer to prevent shrinking.
- Cure each individual layer fully for 30-60 seconds under UV/LED light.
- Use a high quality curing lamp that emits the proper UV wavelength.
- Carefully control application; don’t move fingers until cured.
- Store gel upside down and replace annually.
- Moisturize cuticles with oil before application.
- Add gel thinner if polish thickens.
- Gently heat underneath nail with lighter to spread before curing.
- Remove old gel fully with pure acetone before reapplying if needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did my gel nails turn out lumpy?
The most common causes of lumpy gel nails are incomplete curing, improper application techniques, gel formula issues, and environmental factors like heat or cold. Thick layers, moving before curing, and old or separated gel can all cause bumps.
Can I just apply more gel layers to fix bumps?
No, adding more gel on top of bumpy polish will not help fix it. The extra thickness will make curing even more difficult. Always start fresh by soaking off old gel.
How long should I soak gel nails in acetone to remove?
Plan on soaking for 5-10 minutes to fully soften gel polish. Check after 5 minutes and gently try to scrape off with a cuticle pusher. If it won’t budge, rewrap in foil for another 5 minutes.
Why does my top coat look lumpy over bumpy gel?
Applying thick top coat over bumpy gel will exaggerate the uneven texture. Use a light hand and wipe excess top coat from the brush to minimize thickness.
Can I use a nail file to smooth out bumpy gel polish?
Yes, you can gently buff away bumps in the cured gel surface using a fine grit nail file. Be very careful not to thin the manicure or file too aggressively.
How can I prevent lumpy gel nails next time?
Focus on applying thin, even layers and properly curing each one. Cap the free edges, use clean application techniques, and maintain quality gel formulas and storage.
Achieving Smooth Gel Nails
While the occasional bump or lump is bound to happen to even the most careful DIYers, you can minimize lumpy gel nails by understanding what causes them and following proper application and curing steps. If you do end up with uneven polish, techniques like adding thinner, gently filing surface bumps, applying new thin layers, and soaking off in acetone can get you back to flawless. With the right know-how, you can show off a beautiful, professional looking gel manicure every time.